Under certain dry or higher temperature application conditions, our liquid wax may dry and harden rapidly making buffing difficult. If you experience these conditions, apply the wax to smaller areas then buff within minutes. Apply a very thin coating, almost where you can’t see any wax going onto the paint. Do only half or a quarter of the hood, or just one door panel. Wait no longer than 1 to 2 minutes and then buff the wax. Buffing should then be very easy. Under no circumstances should you apply the wax without buffing soon after. Exposing the un‑buffed wax to the sun will cause a rapid hardening of the wax and buffing will then be very difficult. If you do make this mistake, it is best to use our Ultra‑Fine Polishing Cleaner to remove the hardened wax. Then re‑wax and buff properly.

Another reason for difficult wax buffing is when the paint has some oxidation. Oxidized paint makes its top surface porous. The wax will penetrate the pores and make buffing difficult. Oxidation usually occurs on horizontal surfaces. Roof, hood and trunk lid. If that is you case, try waxing a door. If buffing is easy this means there is definitely is oxidation on the horizontal areas as doors receive much less UV rays and oxidation is either non existent or minimal.

When driving by new car dealer’s lots, have you noticed the white plastic film on the roof, trunk and hood of the new cars? That plastic film is put there to prevent paint damage such as acid rain. Unfortunately the film is removed before they sell the car. One light rain can be loaded with acid. It can etch little irregularly shaped marks in the paint in less than a few hours. The marks may not be noticeable unless you are looking for them. Even when looking, you may not see them if the light is not just right. Try looking at the hood at a shallow angle. All paint colors can be damaged by acid rain. The damage is easier to spot on darker colors like, reds, blacks, blues, greens etc.

How do you prevent acid rain damage? Don’t let your car get rained on is the best bet. That is a little unreasonable. You can do something. Light rainfalls that last only a few minutes usually contain more acid rain than long, heavy rains. So be alert. If you find your car has be rained on you can test for Acid. This may sound a little crazy but it does work. Taste one of the rain drops resting on the car hood. You can do this by simply touching the tip of your tongue to it. Make sure nobody is around. They may think you are nuts! Or, if your finger is clean, touch the water droplet and then touch your finger to your tongue. If the rain drop contains acid, you will taste it. I can’t accurately describe how it will taste but you will taste something if acid is present. Pure rain water should have no taste. If you do detect acid, either dry the horizontal surfaces of the car as quickly as possible or, if you have access to tap water, hose the car off. If you get the acid off soon after the rain stopped, you should have minimal or no damage at all.

Don’t like to taste rain water from your car’s paint? Want more accuracy? Get our pocket sized acid rain test kit. It will show conclusive proof of acid rain drops sitting on your car. The kit contains a micro eye dropper that will lift water droplets off the paint surface. A small vial to place the water, a special bottle of testing liquid and a handy color chart for comparing your results.

Don’t make the very common error of using our products on your whole car then saying…”It looks great, but I can’t see any difference from my old wax.” It’s impossible to remember how your car looked the last time you waxed!

The proper way to compare Malm’s with another product is in a side-to-side test on dark paint. (Black is best) It’s harder to see the difference on white or light colored cars. Do adjacent areas of the car hood. One with Malm’s Ultra-Fine Polish and Malm’s Concentrated Carnauba Wax, the other with your favorite brand. From various angles, observe your face’s reflection, depth of paint color and absence of scratches and imperfections in both areas.

Yes…your new car can have a shine you’ve never dreamed possible! A head turning, eye-popping, deeper, richer mirror gloss. And if you’ve got an older car, strangers will ask if it’s freshly painted!

Scratches, road grime and dull paint won’t come off with simple washing. That’s when you really need the complete Malm’s System. Enhance and preserve the finish this 2-step way. Wash it, then apply Malm’s Ultra-Fine Polish to take away stains, greasy road grime and small, haze-like scratches. It is perfectly safe on clear coat finishes. You don’t have to use the Ultra-Fine Polish every time you wax. You should use it the first time and at least once per year. Unlike many harsh, abrasive cleaners, Malm’s Polish is so microscopically fine it can be used straight from the bottle to polish gold or silver. That means if your car is really dull, you can actually use a power buffer and not worry about buffing off your paint! It is so fine it won’t even leave swirl marks!

All by itself, Malm’s Ultra-Fine Polish will impeccably clean and revive the paint to original showroom quality. Then, further enhance that sparkling finish and color depth with a thin film of Malm’s Carnauba Wax and buff lightly. Now you won’t believe your eyes! And the rain will continue to bead up on the finish even though you wash it again and again!

Older formulated paste waxes
Harder spreading, tiring to apply, difficult to buff. Malm’s is liquid, flows on incredibly easy, goes farther, and all it needs is a gentle buffing to create a super-hard shine with a gloss you simply can’t match with any other products. (Some newer paste waxes are easier to apply then the old fashioned pastes which are still being sold)

One-step cleaner-waxes, polyglaze synthetics and Amino-functional Silicones
These all contain abrasives that gradually “sandpaper” your finish away, and some can cause tiny scratches that actually dull the shine. Don’t use these if you wax often. Use caution!

Cheap “carnauba waxes” off the shelf
The less they cost, the lower the quality of carnauba they contain, and most contain abrasives too. A pint will only do your car two or three times. To one who’s never used Malm’s wax it does appear to cost more, but a pint of Malm’s can cover even a big Mercedes 20 to 30 times!

Colored waxes
Another gimmick to get you to part with your money. You’ll need a different bottle for each color car you’ve got. The polish residue is supposed to fill in chips and scratches. Only touch-up paint should be used to fill chips. And if the dyes used are really strong enough to affect your paint, it could discolor your rubber, chrome and glass! Also, the colored residue makes it hard to see where you’ve missed when buffing. Malm’s comes in just one color, yet works great on ALL color paints!

Flames and acid
These are old time carnival tricks use by hucksters for years. Lighter fluid squirted on your paint will burn for about 7 seconds. Barely enough time to raise the paint temperature 15 degrees or cause any damage. Hydrochloric acid is dripped onto paint after ammonia is first sprayed. It looks scary. The ammonia immediately neutralizes the acid and causes a smoke-like vapor to appear. Just another gimmick to make you think the wax is protecting the paint from the acid. If they claim their wax prevents acid rain damage, ask to see the guarantee. See what they’ll do for you if damage does occur!

Abrasive free 1-Step waxes or polishes
Many products claim they contain no abrasives but really do! (see the test for abrasives in another section of this website)

Claims of high percentages of Carnauba wax
It’s not the quantity of wax, but the use of quality grades and blends of different Carnauba waxes and additional special unique ingredients that creates the highest shine and durability. It’s the final result that counts! Always compare waxes in side-by-side tests!

If you have never used our products before and you want to achieve the best shine possible:

1. Don’t assume that because you have been waxing cars for years that you know all there is to know about these processes. We have been supplying our products since 1979. By now we should know the best ways to use them. Before starting, read all the tips and instructions available on our web site or in our printed booklets. This is by far, the most important step you can take!
2. Wash and Dry Car.
3. Use detailing clay or a sponge contaminant remover to remove all contaminants stuck to the surface of the paint that washing did not take off. It will make the surface very clean and smooth.
4. Apply Polish and Glaze. Rub it in long enough so that the paint’s gloss is markedly enhanced and most fine scratches are removed. This is probably the 2nd most important step to that shine you’ve always wanted. Buff off all residue as detailed in instructions.
5. Apply a thin coating of Malm’s Carnauba Wax and lightly buff.

Your car’s value usually drops every year for about 15 years. If it’s still in excellent condition after 20 years, you can probably sell it for more than you originally paid! With proper care you can keep your car gleaming and free of any rust. An excellent appearance will command the highest price on resale. This guide gives some helpful hints on the correct methods of washing, polishing, waxing and prevention of body rot.

There are many factors in your surrounding environment that affect the paint surface of your car. Of course, the best place to keep your car is in a closed garage maintained at a continuous temperature and humidity, but we’re not all that lucky! You must understand the natural and man-made elements that damage your paint finish. Here are some of them.

1. 1. The Sun produces ultraviolet rays which attack your paint finish. It gets dull and fades. The pores open and paint absorbs dirt. Actually the darker the color of your paint the worse the effect. On a sunny day, feel the roof of a black car versus a white one. A dull finish attracts the sun more than a highly polished one and causes it to oxidize even faster! Caution: Paint can be sun damaged yet still appear shiny.

DO wash your car 3 times a week if you park in an area with corrosive material in the air.

1. Salt Air. If you park near a sea coast, the air around your car is more saturated with salt. Salt is very corrosive to paint finishes and metal.
2. Road Salt and snow melting chemicals. These can play havoc with your paint finish and underside of your car. They can quickly destroy your paint if not washed off quickly. These chemicals are the prime cause of body rot and rust-out. DO wash the underside of your car.
3. Bird Droppings. Their acids are strong enough to melt a spot right through your paint! If you park your car under trees, watch out. You’re in for plenty of spotting and stains. DON’T leave bird droppings on your car.
4. Tree Sap. This stuff rains down on your car. You can’t really see it when it’s happening, but if you look close enough, you’ll see pinhead size clear droplets on the paint surface. This gooey stuff really sticks. Wash it off as soon as possible. Otherwise it turns black as the sun bakes it! Then simple washing won’t even budge it! DON’T ever park under trees.
5. Airborne Pollutants. These consist of fallout from factory smoke stacks, steel mills and incinerators. The tiny particles can cause pitting, rusting, staining and dulling of paint and metal. Ever find little tiny orange rust spots on your paint? Chances are you live downwind of a steel mill.
6. Acid Rain. This stuff can permanently etch little water spots in your paint, chrome and windshields! It’s getting worse every year and is now common in all of North America. Frequent waxing, at least once a month will give maximum protection but not total prevention. When your car gets rained on, use Malm’s Acid Rain Detection Kit to check for acid in the rain drops. If acidic, quickly hose off the car or dry it so the acid won’t get a chance to attack the paint. Only abrasive polish can reduce the terrible appearance of acid rain damage.
7. Many factors contribute to the destruction of your car’s finish. Fortunately there are steps you can take to prevent their harmful effects. Frequent washing is probably the most important. Frequent waxing runs a close second!
8. The person who lives near the seashore, a large incinerating plant and parks under trees loaded with birds should be washing every day.
9. If you keep your car garaged and don’t drive on wet roads, you can probably get away with washing just once a month.

Washing is probably the most important step in keeping your car’s finish looking it’s best! The best wash job will take care of the underside, exterior painted surfaces and all metal work.

The bottom of the car should be washed first. Use a hose with a high pressure nozzle. You must clean off all the accumulated mud and dirt, especially in those hard to see places. That junk will hold moisture for days. It’ll just sit there nice and wet and be a great environment for rust. Dirt usually sticks on fender wells and the lip of the wheel wells. Also check inside of bumpers and the frame. Check the much forgotten opening that’s exposed when you open the door. Every car has it’s own particular mud and dirt catching areas. Find them!

DON’T leave dirt on the underside of the car.

The next time your car is on a lift, use a light and look for dirt accumulation areas. Remember to remove the dirt from those places each time you wash the car. This is very important where snow melting chemicals are used. Keeping the underside of your car clean is just as important as keeping the finish shiny. A clean bottom should virtually eliminate any chance of body rot.

Now we’ll wash the exterior. Make sure your car’s paint surface is cool. If it’s been in the sun, put it in shade and let it cool. Remove all tar, grease and oil that has splashed onto paint. Use a commercial tar remover. Over the years we’ve suggested using gentle streams of water to float some of the dirt off. Pressure washers are becoming more popular. Many commercial do-it-yourself auto washes use them. If used properly, this method can remove much more of the scratch causing dirt than soft flows of water. Much of that gritty dirt can be removed before a rag or wash mitt is used. The less rubbing to dislodge dirt the less scratches you’ll get. You must use pressure washers very carefully to prevent damage to the car and to yourself.

When washing without a pressure washer, flood the entire car surface with water. Let it stand about 3 minutes. Then flood it again. Let it stand another 3 minutes. These soakings soften dirt, bird droppings and sap. Letting time pass between soakings allows water to penetrate the dirt and much of it will simply float away.

DO let water soften dirt and float it off the surface.

DO use only mild car wash especially formulated for use on Carnauba wax.

After the third soaking and waiting period, flood the entire surface again. Now fill one bucket with car wash solution diluted with lukewarm water. Fill a second bucket with only water. Use a clean wash mitt. Get it fully wet with the soapy solution. Start at the highest part of the vehicle.

Lightly move the wet mitt around on the surface to dislodge remaining dirt. Do a section at a time, making sure you continue flooding and floating away dirt and soap with streams of water. Frequently and vigorously rinse the wash mitt in the second bucket of clear water. This will loosen much of the scratch causing gritty dirt from the mitt and cause it to fall to the bottom of the bucket.

See photos of how much dirt accumulates in the second bucket of clear water. Photos

When finished with the mitt, flood the entire car surface for the final rinse. Wash all gritty dirt out of the mitt when finished. If you removed all the tar, grease and oil before you started washing, your wash mitt should still be clean.

DON’T allow water to dry on the paint surface by itself.

Allowing water to dry on the paint will usually cause white water spots on the finish. You should dry the car with either clean towels or a chamois at least 4 foot square. The chamois is probably the softest material you can use for removing the water. It’s made of animal hide, is lint free and really dries the surface quickly. And…contrary to old wives tales, it doesn’t remove wax any more than a towel, sponge or synthetic chamois!

DO use a chamois to remove all water from surface. It’s Lint free!

It is important to use mild car wash solutions that are formulated for use on Carnauba wax. Many products contain harsh detergents that tend to remove oils from Carnauba wax just like shampoos remove oil from your hair. Actually, oily hair is usually healthier than dry hair. It’s important not to remove the oils from wax. They serve to protect the wax from deteriorating and they contribute to the high gloss.

DON’T use automatic car washes that have spinning brushes.

Never run your car through commercial car washes that rub the paint surface with brushes. They may cause millions of fine scratches. Their industrial strength detergents also tend to drive off the wax you’ve taken so long to put on! Automatic car washes are great for the average guy that’s lazy but poison to the perfectionist.

Most water contains some amount of dissolved minerals. When this mineral containing water dries, it can leave white spots on whatever surface it dries on. You can make a simple test of your home’s water to determine if it indeed will cause water spotting. Simply wash a clean clear drinking glass with tap water. Let it air dry on the counter. If you then see any water spots or discolorations you can be certain the water supplying your home contains minerals. If you wash your car with this same water and allow any of that water to air dry on the car, you will get deposits of minerals on the paint. The deposits will reduce smoothness, clarity and overall gloss and will prevent you from getting the best shine possible.

How do you avoid these deposits? Either get a water conditioning system installed in your home to remove all those minerals, do a final rinse with Distilled water,  or allow as little water as possible to air dry on your car’s paint. After years of experimenting with cotton towels, micro fiber cloths, chamois, synthetic chamois and similar drying materials, we have found that even with aggressive wringing all eventually become water saturated. At this point they cannot remove enough to prevent all water spotting. You can easily test your drying materials. Completely soak your material and then wring it out as best you can. Then wipe any mirror in your home with the now damp material. If you see any water beads on the glass you can assume you are leaving too much water on your car.

To remove the small amount of visible water that the saturated materials leave on the paint, quickly follow up with a soft dry cloth before the remaining water air dries. This should remove virtually all the water and greatly reduce the chance of leaving any mineral deposits. You may require 3 to 6 dry cloths depending on vehicle size.

Always move your vehicle into the shade after washing to prevent the sun from rapidly evaporating the water.

This is probably the most misunderstood of all steps in the maintenance of car finishes. Most people think polishing and waxing are the same. They’re not! By the time you finish reading this, you won’t have any trouble understanding the difference.

Webster’s Dictionary defines polish as “to become smooth or glossy, as from or through friction.” All paint surfaces have minute imperfections that are almost invisible to the naked eye. They consist of small scratches, gouges and little hills and valleys. It’s difficult to see these singly but all together they make the paint duller. To make it shiny and glossy you must remove these imperfections or reduce them as much as possible.

Polish is the material used to accomplish this task. Don’t be fooled by advertising hype! Many manufacturers claim their polish contains no abrasive. It’s just not true. All polishes are made with abrasives. You cannot remove scratches without them!!!

Abrasives range from coarse to extremely fine. The condition of the paint determines the appropriate polish. Have you ever polished metal such as silverware or car bumpers? Those polishes contain abrasive.

Ever see a jeweler polish a fine piece of gold? He uses Jewelers Rouge. It’s an abrasive. Let’s get something straight. You can’t remove a scratch without affecting the surrounding surface! If you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, it’s deep! Better not try to remove it completely. You’d have to sacrifice to much good paint. When polishing, you are actually removing an amount of paint that’s as deep as the scratch. Even when gold is polished, a small portion of the surface is removed during the polishing operation. The finest telescopes have mirrors polished with abrasives for maximum reflectivity.

DON’T use heavy duty rubbing compound or strong abrasive polishes indiscriminately.

Many people are afraid of using abrasives. And when they realize they remove a little paint, it really gets them fretting! Don’t worry. It’s normal for polish to remove paint. If it didn’t, nothing could become polished!

The top surface of paint is constantly being oxidized by the sun, scratched during washing and generally abused through driving. The only way to remove the damage is with polish. Normally every 6 months with an extremely fine polish is all that’s needed. Of course, if paint has become heavily oxidized, scratched or just plain dull, you’ll have to remove quite a bit of paint. It’ll be much faster if you start with a coarser polish. Then switch to an ultra fine polish to get the smoothest surface and highest gloss.

The ultra fine polishes used on paint are similar to the jewelers rouge used on gold and silver. They won’t remove much material, but will remove the tiny scratches and imperfections.

In short, use polish to clean and smooth the paint surface to the maximum gloss attainable. Don’t be afraid to use polish or their abrasives.

Unless polishes contain wax they won’t leave a coating that will protect the paint. See the explanation below. It tells when to use the various types of polishes. Most polishes can be applied by hand or machine. Be careful when using heavy-duty polish with a machine. You can quickly cut right through the paint and expose the bare metal!

DO wax your car at least every 3 months, more often if always kept outdoors.

Wax Monthly to resist acid rain damage.

When To Use Heavy Duty Polish (contains coarse abrasives)

• On heavily oxidized, chalky, dull paint.
• On new paint to remove imperfections like “orange peel” and deep scratches.
• On freshly repaired and painted surfaces for blending or feathering.
• Works very fast. Be careful.
• Leaves slight shine.

When to Use Medium Polish (contains fine abrasive)

• Always use after Heavy Duty polish.
• On paint with light oxidation.
• To remove light scratches.
• Works moderately fast.
• Leaves medium shine.

When to Use ultra fine polishes (contains finest abrasives available)

• Always use after coarser polishes.
• Use at least once per year. More often if car kept outdoors.
• To remove extremely fine scratches.
• Works slowly. Needs much rubbing.
• Gives paint maximum gloss until wax is applied for even greater shine.

Just because you remember seeing your father or friend polishing their car, don’t assume you know all there is to know about this important step. It’s not as simple as most people think. You must understand the correct technique.

When using any polish, a controlled amount of firm hand pressure is required when rubbing it onto the paint surface. Polishes are not “Wipe-on, Wipe-Off” products. Wiping them on will do absolutely nothing to the paint! You must really rub them into the surface if you expect the proper results.

How long should it take to polish an average size car with an ultra fine polish? Well, if it took you an hour to polish the whole car, you didn’t do anything. You simply “tickled” it! If the paint is slightly dull or has many fine scratches, it will probably take 1 person from 4 to 6 hours of hand polishing to return the car to the best shine possible. Allow more time if you’re a real fanatic. Using a good orbital polishing machine will shorten the work.

Soak your applicator in water and wring out so it’s damp. Always try rubbing polish in 6″ to 8″ overlapping circles. The polish must stay wet or damp. If it dries, it won’t polish. It will simply be buffed off the paint as you rub. As the polish dries, simply sprinkle some distilled water (available at local supermarket, air conditioner or de-humidifier) on the paint or on your applicator. You want to keep polish damp. From time to time allow the polish to dry. Then with a clean dry towel, buff off the residue. Examine the paint to determine if you’ve done enough polishing. If the paint has not reached maximum gloss, add more polish and continue rubbing in the same area until no further improvement in gloss occurs.

Wash your polish applicator when it appears dirty.

DON’T do any work on your paint surface in the sun.

Always work on a cool surface. If your car was baking in the sun or the hood is hot from engine heat, move it into the shade, preferably indoors and let it cool off. It’s easier on you when you work in shade.

DO apply wax after any polish was used.

Most polishes leave nothing on the paint. The paint may look very shiny but it’s got no protection. You must immediately wax it with the best Natural Carnauba wax you can get. Be certain it contains not a speck of abrasive! Do not leave your car outdoors until you get the wax on!!!

Pure carnauba wax has absolutely no abrasives. It cannot remove scratches, imperfections dirt or grime. It can help to fill in tiny scratches and make them less apparent but it can’t remove them.

DON’T use a combination wax and cleaner often.

Remember, any product that claims to wax, clean and remove scratches from paint must contain abrasive. Use it too often and you’re unnecessarily removing paint! A wax without abrasive, is a protective coating, to be applied to a paint finish that has previously been cleaned, polished or waxed. The wax seals the pores of the paint. It protects it from the damaging elements in the atmosphere.

Because wax does fill minor imperfections and tends to make the surface slightly smoother, the gloss or shine will be improved after it’s application.

When you select a wax, check for abrasive. In doubt? Test by applying it with a clean white cloth to a dark painted shiny surface that’s not covered with a clear coat of paint. It doesn’t have to be car paint. Rub firmly in one spot for 30 seconds. If you see paint on the cloth, the wax does indeed contain abrasive.

DO use Pure Carnauba Wax.

The finest natural wax is pure carnauba. However, there are many grades of carnauba. Carnauba wax comes from the Copernicia Cerifera, a palm tree growing in the rain forests of Brazil. The young leaves are covered with a waxy secretion known as Carnauba. It protects the leaves from the strong sun and wet conditions. High costs of gathering the raw wax, shipping and importation have made Carnauba very expensive. Most car waxes don’t contain any Carnauba and some are mixed with Amino-Functional Silicones that “soak” into paint.

Carnauba has been around for many years and will continue to be the finest and safest paint protection you can use on your car.

Seeing the words Carnauba wax on a bottle or can of wax is no assurance of getting the best shine possible. There are many grades of carnauba. Some give longer last and durability. Others give a very slippery surface. Some, better water beading and only certain grades give extremely high gloss. Only the correct blending of the different grades will result in a formulation that gives the highest gloss, durability and great water beads! Since 1980 we feel we have that formulation. So do thousands of our happy customers. After trying Malm’s we know you’ll agree.

DON’T be fooled by claims for mystical formulations requiring unusual application techniques.

Many of today’s waxes are formulations based on Amino-Functional Silicones. Some require you to wipe them off within seconds of application, before they dry or streaks may occur. When applied to paint, these silicones use the moisture in air as a catalyst for curing and bonding to paint. The silicones molecularly combine and fill the pores of the paint. Since silicones repel water, water will bead as if Carnauba wax was used, however it will not equal the gloss of Carnauba because it doesn’t fill fine scratches and imperfections like Carnauba does. Some products attempt to combine Carnauba wax with Amino-Functional Silicones for longer water beading. Application of these products are sometimes more tedious. If your wax needs to “cure”, it probably contains Amino-Functional Silicones. Be cautious of what you buy!

As the silicone bonds like glue, it’s very difficult to remove. If re-painting the whole car or just a damaged area, the silicone filled paint prevents new paint from adhering properly. Splits in the paint called “Fisheye” sometimes result. Ask any body shop owner about this real problem.

There are many products sold for conditioning and softening leather. All work with varying degrees of success on only some leathers. Much of the leather now used in automobile upholstery is coated with vinyl or some form of plastic. This seals the leather and stops it from absorbing dirt and stains caused by spilled liquids. Unfortunately, these coatings also prevent leather conditioners from getting through to the actual leather. Some conditioning products don’t even mention this problem. They simply direct you to apply it, leave it on for a few hours, then buff off any remaining residue.

You may have leather seats, but if they’re vinyl coated how can your conditioner get through? It can only penetrate where there are open seams, stitches, cracks in the vinyl coating or areas where the coating has worn off.

There’s a simple test to determine if your leather upholstery is sealed or not. Simply place a drop of water on a horizontal surface of a seat. If the leather is unsealed, the water will penetrate quickly and temporarily create a dark spot where the leather became moistened. If the water just sits there in a bead, with no sign of penetration, the leather is probably coated. There is nothing wrong in conditioning the leather only at seams, by the stitches or where it’s cracked. At least you’re conditioning some of it. Many times, stitches will tear through brittle leather. Conditioning should help prevent that.

Important DO’S

• DO keep your car in a closed garage if possible.
• DO try to park in shade.
• DO wash your car every few days if you park in an area with corrosive material in the air.
• DO wash the underside of your car.
• DO remove under carriage accumulated dirt deposits that may cause body rot.
• DO let water soften dirt and float if off paint.
• DO side-by-side tests on dark paint when comparing different waxes or polishes.
• DO use a chamois skin to remove all water from paint because it’s lint less.
• DO wash your car at least every 2 months. More often if kept outdoors.
• DO apply wax after any polish was used.
• DO use pure Carnauba Wax not containing Amino-Functional Silicones.
• DO use Malm’s Acid Rain Test Kit and rinse or dry car immediately if acid rain is detected.
• DO wax every 30 days if acid rain is prevalent or your car is always outdoors.

Important DON’TS

• DON’T leave accumulated dirt on the underside of your car.
• DON’T leave bird droppings on paint.
• DON’T park under trees. Leaves can stain.
• DON’T do any work on paint surfaces in the sun.
• DON’T allow water to dry on paint by itself.
• DON’T use automatic car washes that have spinning brushes.
• DON’T use heavy duty polish indiscriminately.
• DON’T allow acid rain to sit on your car’s paint.
• DON’T use waxes containing Amino-Functional Silicones.
• DON’T be taken by wild advertising or claims sounding too good to be true.